Wararka iyo Saxaafadda

Sid Vicious waligiis ma rumaysna inta ay leeyihin dharkiisii ​​hore iyo in kuwa been abuurka ahi ay aad ugu dadaali doonaan sidii ay u been abuuran lahaayeen.
Waqti aan fogeyn, taariikhyahanka dhaqanka pop-ka ee fadhigiisu yahay London Paul Gorman, qoraaga The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: Biography, iyo xaraashka Fashion Rock Paul Gorman ayaa helay gabal uu leeyahay Marr.Shaadhka Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries calaamad, qiyaastii 1977, si loo qiimeeyo.
Waxay ka samaysan tahay muslin waxayna soo bandhigtay sawir isla markiiba lagu aqoonsan karo farshaxaniistaha Jamie Reid ee gacmaha bistooladaha galmada ee "Anarchy in UK" kali.
Haddii ay run tahay, waxa ay ku soo jiidan doontaa qiimo qurux badan xaraashka. Xaraashkii Bonhams bishii Maajo, shaadhka Mr. McLaren iyo Ms. Westwood 1977 ayaa lagu iibiyay $6,660, oo ay weheliso funaanad madow iyo casaan ah oo naadir ah oo lagu dhejiyay madaxa iyo madaxa. Lafaha isgoysyada iyo "Bistooladaha Galmada" Mustaqbal ma leh "Lyrics" waxaa lagu iibiyaa $8,896.
Si kastaba ha ahaatee, Mr Gorman kuma qancin shaadhka uu qiimaynayay inuu yahay waxa mulkiiluhu ku andacoodo.
"Muslimku meelaha qaar waa duugoobay," ayuu yidhi Mr. Gorman." Laakiin meel kale, dharka ayaa weli ahaa mid cusub.Khadku ma ahayn tayada 1970-meeyadii, kumana faafin dharka."Mar wax laga weydiiyay waxa ku saabsan, iibiyuhu waxa uu kala baxay gabalkii guriga xaraashka oo uu sheegay in si gaar ah loo iibiyay. "Madxafka waxaa ku jira shaadh la mid ah oo keliya," Gorman ayaa yidhi, "waxana aan u malaynayaa in sidoo kale su'aal la iska weydiinayo."
Ku soo dhawoow dunida cajiibka ah ee faa'iidada badan leh ee punk been abuurka ah.30kii sano ee la soo dhaafay, adigoo iska dhigaya in lagu farsameeyay naqshado asal ah oo ay ku jiraan S-iyo-M iyo sawiro wasakh ah, gooyn cusub iyo xargaha, qaababka dheeraadka ah ee milatariga, tweeds iyo cinjirka - Sid Vicious iyo asaagiis ee fowdada Waxa caan ku noqday waagii fikirka – waxa uu noqday warshad korriin.
"Waxaan helaa dhowr iimayl bishiiba anigoo weydiinaya haddii ay wax dhab yihiin," ayuu yiri Steven Philip, archivist, aruuriyaha iyo lataliye. "Kama qaybgeli doono.Dadku waxay iibsanayaan dahabka nacasyada.Had iyo jeer waxaa jira 500 oo been abuur ah mid dhab ah. "
Mudo nus qarni ah, Mr McLaren iyo Ms Westwood ayaa ka furay boutique-gooda ka-hortagga dhaqanka, Let It Rock, ee 430 King's Road, London. Dukaankaas, oo hadda loo yaqaan Worlds End, waa meesha uu ku dhashay moodada waddooyinka. Milkiilayaasha ayaa ah naqshadeeyayaasha qeexay. goobta punk.
10-kii sano ee soo socday, dukaanku wuxuu isu beddelay Galmo iyo Seeditionaries, isagoo soo bandhigay muuqaal iyo dhawaaq saameyn fog leh, sidaas darteedna la ururin karo. "Alaabada keligood ah ayaa aad u yar sababo dhowr ah awgood," ayuu yiri Alexander Fury, qoraaga. ee "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." Waqtigooda wax-soo-saarkoodu waa gaaban yahay, dharkuna waa qaali, dadkuna waxay jecel yihiin inay iibsadaan oo xidhaan ilaa ay kala tagaan."
Agaasimaha farshaxanka ee Dior iyo Fendi, Kim Jones, wuxuu leeyahay shaqo badan oo asal ah wuxuuna aaminsan yahay in "Westwood iyo McLaren ay sameeyeen naqshadda dharka casriga ah.Waxay ahaayeen aragtiyaal,” ayuu yidhi.
Matxafyo badan ayaa sidoo kale soo aruuriya waxyaalahan. Michael Costiff, bulsheed, naqshadeeye gudaha iyo ilaaliye kaydiyaha World Archives for Dover Street Stores, wuxuu ahaa macmiilkii hore ee Mr. McLaren iyo Ms. Westwood. 178 dhar oo uu la soo ururiyay xaaskiisa, Gerlinde, Hadda waxay ku jiraan ururinta Matxafka Victoria iyo Albert, kaasoo ka soo iibsaday ururinta Mr Costiff 2002 £42,500 Sanduuqa Ururinta Farshaxanka Qaranka.
Qiimaha canabka ee McLaren iyo Westwood ayaa ka dhigaya bartilmaameedka budhcad-badeedda moodada. Heerka ugu cad, nuqulada ayaa laga heli karaa internetka oo si toos ah iyo jaban, iyada oo aan khiyaano lahayn - kaliya garaaf la yaqaan oo ku saabsan t-shirt fudud.
"Qalabkani wuxuu ka yimid asal ka soo jeeda aduunka fanka," ayuu yiri Paul Stolper, gallerist fadhigiisu yahay London kaas oo ururintiisa badan ee punk asalka ah ay hadda ku jiraan Matxafka Farshaxanka ee Metropolitan. Guevara ama Marilyn, waxay ku dhamaanaysaa in lagu kala qaado dhaqankeena.Bistooladaha galmada ayaa qeexaya xilli, sidaas darteed sawirada si joogto ah ayaa loo soo saarayaa."
Kadibna waxaa jira been abuur aad u cad, sida midhaha jaban ee T-shirt Loom oo leh Mickey Mouse oo iskutallaabta lagu qodbay, ama $190 "SEX asliga ah" xirmooyinka gaaban ee dukaanka Robot ee Tokyo kuwaas oo si fudud loogu aqoonsan karo mid aan asal ahayn, Sababtoo ah dharka cusub iyo xaqiiqda ah in qaabkani aan waligiis la samaynin 1970-yadii. Suuqyada Japan waxaa ka buuxsamay faalso.
Sannadkii hore, Mr Gorman waxa uu eBay gudaha UK ka helay dhar la yidhaa “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood ‘Charlie Brown’ White T-shirt” oo uu ku iibsaday qiimihiisu £100 (qiyaastii $139).
"Waa tusaale xiiso leh oo been abuur ah," ayuu yidhi." Weligood may jirin.Laakin ku darida hal-ku-dhegga 'Burburinta' iyo weerarka isku dayga ah in la isticmaalo dabeecadda kartoonka ee aadka loo jeclaa ee lagu sawiray hab ka soo horjeeda dhaqanka ayaa haga habka McLaren iyo Westwood.Waxaan isticmaalaa khabiirka Madbacadaha ayaa xaqiijiyay in khadyadu ay yihiin kuwo casri ah, sida tolitaanka funaanadda."
Carmalka Mr McLaren, Young Kim, waxay si adag u shaqeysay sannado badan si ay u ilaaliso dhaxalkiisa iyo dhaxalkiisa. "Waxaan aaday Matxafka Metropolitan 2013 si aan u kormeero ururintooda," ayay tiri Ms. King." Aad ayaan u naxay markaan ogaaday in inta badan waxay ahaayeen been abuur.Dharka asalka ah ayaa yaraa.Malcolm wuxuu ka dhigay inay ku haboon yihiin isaga iyo Vivienne.Qaar badan oo ka mid ah dharka Met ayaa ahaa kuwo aad u weyn oo ku habboon pre-punks maanta. "
Waxaa jira calaamado kale. "Waxay haystaan ​​labo ka mid ah surwaalka tweed iyo maqaar, kuwaas oo naadir ah oo dhab ah," ayay tiri Ms King. "Waxay dhacaan lammaane labaad, taas oo ah been abuur.Tolashadu waxay ku taal dusha sare ee dhexda, ma aha gudaha, maadaama ay noqon doonto dhar si fiican loo sameeyay.D-ringkuna aad buu u cusub yahay.
Shaqada Met's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" bandhigga ayaa soo jiidatay dareenka ka dib markii Ms. King iyo Mr. Gorman ay si cad uga hadleen been-abuurka lagu eedeeyay iyo qaar badan oo ka mid ah is-waafajinta bandhigga.
Laakiin waxaa jira su'aalo ku saabsan shaqada soo gashay madxafka siddeed sano ka hor. Tusaalooyinka waxaa ka mid ah suudhka addoonsiga oo si weyn uga muuqday bandhigga "Anglomania" ee 2006, oo loo aaneynayo ganacsade qadiimiga ah oo fadhigiisu yahay London Simon Easton, iyo Vintage Westwood iyo McLaren kirada shirkadda Punk Ururinta Bistooladaha, oo ay siisay stylists iyo filim sameeyayaal, iyo 2003, Ciraaq Mr. Stone iyo lamaanihiisa ganacsi, Gerald Bowey, ayaa madxafka ka sameeyay khadka internetka.Waqti qaar, madxafku wuxuu joojiyay liiska suudadka sida qayb ka mid ah ururintiisa.
"Sannadkii 2015-kii, laba qaybood oo McLaren-Westwood ah oo ururintayada ku jira ayaa la go'aamiyey inay been abuur yihiin," ayuu yidhi Andrew Bolton, oo ah maamulaha machadka dharka ee Metropolitan.Cilmi-baadhisteenna aaggan way socotaa.”
Mr Gorman waxa uu Bolton u diray dhowr email oo uu ku sheegay in shaqooyinka kale ee taxanaha ahi ay dhibaato ku qabaan, balse Mr Gorman waxa uu sheegay in Mr Bolton aanu mar dambe u jawaabin isaga. Bolton waa uu diiday in uu faallo dheeri ah ka bixiyo maqaalkan.
Mr Easton, oo aan faallo ka bixinayn maqaalkan, ayaa email ku sheegay in Mr Bowie uu u hadlayay isaga, laakiin magaciisa lama tirtiri karo halyeyga punk been abuurka ah. Sannado badan, boggiisa PunkPistol.com, oo la kaydiyay 2008, waa Dad badani waxay u arkaan inay tahay kayd kayd ah oo la isku halayn karo oo loogu talagalay naqshadaha asalka ah ee McLaren iyo Westwood.
Si kastaba ha ahaatee, Mr Bowie wuxuu sheegay in inkasta oo ay dadaal badan u galeen sidii ay u ansixin lahaayeen ururinta, "habka khatarta ah ee dharka markii hore loo sameeyay, la soo saaray oo ka dibna dib loo soo saaray ayaa caqabad ku noqday.Maanta, xitaa liisaska buugaagta xaraashka, rasiidhada iyo xaaladaha qaarkood ee shahaadada Westwood, dharkan ayaa weli ah muran."
Sebtembar 9, 2008, Mr. McLaren ayaa markii ugu horreysay lagu wargeliyay baaxadda khiyaanada ku hareeraysan isaga iyo Ms. Westwood iyada oo loo marayo iimayl qarsoodi ah oo uu u gudbiyay Mr. Gorman maqaalkan oo ay xaqiijisay Ms. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Warbixinno ka dib, booliisku waxay weerareen guryo ku yaal Croydon iyo Eastbourne, halkaas oo ay ka heleen qoraallo calaamado kicin ah," emailka ayaa yidhi." Laakiin waa ayo kuwan cusub?Ku soo dhawoow Mr Grant Howard iyo Mr Lee Parker."
Grant Champkins-Howard, oo hadda ah DJ hoos yimaada alias Grant Dale, iyo Lee Parker, tuubiste, ayaa lagu maxkamadeeyay Kingston Crown Court bishii Juun 2010, garsooraha Susan Matthews ayaa tiri.Waxay yihiin "beenaalayaal faalso ah." Hantidooda waxaa soo weeraray 2008dii kooxda Farshaxanka iyo Farshaxanka ee Magaalada waxayna qabteen shixnad lagu eedeeyay McLaren iyo Westwood dhar iyo agabyo la xiriira, iyo sidoo kale 120 been abuur ah oo Banksy ah.
Labada qof ayaa markii dambe lagu helay dambi ah inay ka been abuurteen shaqadii Banksy.Mr.McLaren, oo ah abuuraha kaliya ee dharka asalka ah ee Jinsiga iyo Seditionary ee doonaya inuu marag furo, ayaa la waydiistay inuu eego alaabta la qabtay oo uu tilmaamo in dharka ay yihiin kuwo been abuur ah: cabbirka saxda ah ee xarfaha stencilka, dhar aan iswaafajin, isticmaalka YKK halkii ay ka ahaan lahayd hillaacyada sibiirada calaamadeysan. , jaantusyada garaafyada khaldan ee isku dhejiska ah iyo shati cad oo duug ah oo la midabeeyay.
"Wuu xanaaqsanaa," ayay tiri Ms King." Wuxuu aad u dareemay ilaalinta iyo difaaca shaqadiisa.isagay qaali u ahayd.”Ka dib markii uu burburay iskaashigii u dhexeeyay Mr McLaren iyo Ms Westwood 1984-kii, waxaa jiray sumcad weyn oo soo jireen ah oo ka dhaxaysay labadooda.
Mr Howard iyo Parker ayaa lagu riday xukuno ganaax ah oo ku saabsan kiiskii bangiyada, laakiin kiiskii dharka been abuurka ahaa ayaa la laalay markii Mr McLaren uu dhintay 2010 sababtoo ah wuxuu ahaa markhaati furaha u ahaa dacwad oogayaasha gudaha goobta.
Si kastaba ha ahaatee, waxa soo baxday in qoyska Ms Westwood laga yaabo in ay si badheedh ah u abuureen ama u huriyeen warshadaha punk been abuurka ah.” Waxa aan sameeyay daabacado xadidan qaar ka mid ah nashqadaha hore si aan lacag ugu ururiyo si aan u bilaabo Daandaansiga Wakiilka,” ayuu yidhi Joe Corré, ina Mr. McLaren iyo Ms. Westwood, oo furay nigiskiisa 1994 meherad.
"Waxaan dib u abuurnay funaanadda lafta digaaga iyo funaanadda 'Venus'," ayuu yiri Mr. Corré. "Waxa lagu calaamadeeyay nuqullo xaddidan, oo la soo saaray tiro xaddidan oo 100 ah, ka dibna loo iibiyey suuqa Japan. .”Kahor kuwan nuqulladan faahfaahsan ee qaaliga ah, soo saarista shaqadu waxay ku koobnayd muraayadaha silk ee cad ee shaadhka jumlada ah Daabacaadda, xawaaraha wax-soo-saarku waa dhakhso, qiimuhuna waa raqiis.
Mr. Corré ayaa sheegay in Vivienne Westwood ay shati siisay taranka.Mr.McLaren wuu xanaaqay.Email ku taariikhaysan 14kii Oktoobar 2008 oo loo diray koox uu ku jiro wariye Steven Daly, Mr McLaren wuxuu ku qoray: "Yaa u ogolaaday inay tan sameeyaan?Waxaan u sheegay Joe inuu si degdeg ah u joojiyo oo u qoro isaga .Waan xanaaqsanahay."
Mr. Corré, oo dhawaan noqday agaasimaha Vivienne Foundation, "waxay u isticmaashaa xuquuqda daabacaadda shaqadeeda si naxariis leh si ay lacag ugu ururiso sababo kala duwan."Waxa uu sheegay in uu sahamin doono sida loo "joojin karo" been abuurka. King waxa ay sii waddaa in ay u dagaalanto dhaxalka Mr McLaren oo ay aaminsantahay in si isdaba joog ah looga tirtirayo taariikhdiisa.
Ganacsiga bastoolada punk ee Mr. Easton iyo Mr. Bowey ayaa sii wada iibinta Ms. Westwood iyo shaqada Mr. McLaren iyada oo loo marayo dukaanka Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, kuwaas oo intooda badan sita warqad caddayn ah oo ka socota Shirkadda Vivienne Westwood, oo ay saxeexeen, naqshadeeyeen oo kaydiyeen Murray Blewett. Kuwaas waxaa ka mid ahaa shaarar xariif ah oo ay ku jiraan koodhadhka Peter Pan iyo xirmooyinka xariirta ah ee Karl Marx, iyo jaakadaha suufka ah ee Levi's ay dhiirigelisay.
Internetku uma adaga sida guryaha xaraashka badankooda, kamana faalloon doonaan maqaalkan, laakiin waxay sheegeen inay matalaan oo keliya shaqooyinka leh cadad aan xabbadu karin, tusaale ahaan sawirrada mulkiilaha oo xidhan dharka sannadihii 1970-yadii.
"Waa muhiim in la fahmo in dhibanayaal badan oo been abuur ah ay yihiin dhibanayaal diyaar ah," ayuu yiri Mr Gorman." Waxay runtii rabaan inay rumaystaan ​​inay qayb ka yihiin sheekada asalka ah.Taasi waa waxa moodada ku saabsan, miyaanay ahayn?Waxaas oo dhan waxaa wada rabitaan.”